Art of making shoe uppers



1931. H, D. REED ET AL 67 -ART OF MAKING SHOE UPI ERS Filed July 51. 1930 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 I I7? we 77'ZO719 11 )1. D. R ac d Dec. 8, 1931. REED ET AL 1,835,967

ART OF MAKING SHOE UPPERS Filed July 31, 1930 I I 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 2'2 1 I fwvef7o g )1. D. )E'saf Kit/(en? 5L H M (M amw 716g Patented Dec. 8, 1931 UNITED STATES HARVEY D. REED, OF ABINGTON, AND HARRISON H. Km, OF *1 SETTS, ASSIGNORS TO REGAL SHOE COMPANY, OF WEI, SSA L.

SORPORATION OF MASSACHUSETTS ART OF MAKING SHOE UPI M1:

Application. filed m 31, 1930. Serial no. anew.

This invention relates to the construction of shoes and more especially to the construction of the shoe upper before it is secured to the shoe bottom.

To understand fully the nature of this invention and its relation to prior art practice, it should be pointed out, by way of preliminary, that the common practice in shoe mak ing is to out out the so-called toe lining, that is, the inside layer of cloth or other material underlying the vamp and toe of the upper, in two lateral pieces which are stitched respectively to the adjacent sides of the quarter lining leaving the toe lining open down the middle for the convenient performance of the later stitching operations and the eyeleting of the vent.

After the quarter has been stitched an the edges of the vent eyeleted, the toe lining is then closed by unitin the two parallel adjacent edges together liy overlapping them and stitching them preparatory to stltching on the vamp itself. The objection to this method, however, is that it leaves a thick seam down the middle of the forepart from the instep to the toe, which by its pressure on the sensitive underneath portion of the foot of the wearer very frequently causes much discomfort. 1

It has been proposed to make the toe lining in one entire piece, which is then stitched at its rear edge to the forward edge of the quarter lining, but when this is done the remainder the stitching must be done on a stitching machine having a cylindrical work support which, being much slower in operation, involves additional labor cost and furthermore the dificulty of eyeleting the upper after the vent has been closed in front by stitching on the one-piece toe lining substantially incr ases the expense of the eyeleting operation, which involves much more time and labor under such conditions.

The present invention is intended to get rid of the objectionable medial seam over the medial line of the foot, while at the same time avoiding the additional expense involved in previous methods using a one-piece toe lining.

To this end the invention is characterized terior lining'memhers.

by the use of a one-piece toe lining, which is united in the first instance at only one rear edge to the corresponding forward'edge of the wquarterlining of the shoe, the other half of the rear edge of the one-piece vamp lining being left open unstitched to the rear portion of the upper. This permits the stitching of the outside quarter to the quarter lining, the latter on the open side being provided or formed with an extension which can be stitched, readily to the open edge of the toe lining after the upper edges of the uarter lining and the quarter have been stitc ed toether and the eyelets have been inserted on oth sides of the vent by the usual e eleting machine. This and other features 0 the invention will be described in the following specification and will be defined in the claims hereto annexed.

In the accompanying drawings we have illustrated two slightly different forms en1- bodying the principles of this invention, in which Fig. 1 is a perspective view showing the Y ward extension of the quarter lining preparatory to attaching the vamp or outer foreportion of the upper to complete the construction of the upper before it is lasted to the.

inner sole.

Fig. 4a is a side elevation of the pompleted shoe, the vamp and the quarter beln partly broken away to show the relation '0 the in- Figs. 5 to 8 show a series of views corresponding to Figs. 1 to 4, respectively, of a modified form of construction, in which the forward extension ofthe quarter lining on the open side is integral with the quarter lining.

Referring now to Fig. 1 of the drawings,the quarter linging 2 is cut out in the usual form and comprises the heel-embracing portion 2 having the narrow forward lateral extensions 2 and 2. To one lateral forward extension 2 is stitched a piece of fabric 5 forming a further forward extension toward the venient access for the carrying on of subsequent operations.

Inasmuch as the front of the quarter llning is not closed, but is left open, it is possible to I readily apply the outer quarter 6, usually of upper leather, over the quarter lining 2 and unite the quarter member 6 with the quarter lining 2 by a row of stitches 7 running from the forward edge of the quarter and quarter lining around the entire upper edge of the quarter and quarter lining, as shown in Fig. 2.

While the front of the quarter is still open it is also possible-to readily and conveniently affix the'eyelets along both edges of the vent.

The next operation in the processis the uniting of the open rear edge of the toe lining 3 with the forward extension 5 of the quarter liningv by means of the seam 8,.before which operation the tongue will have been inserted and stitched forwardly of the vent.

The various operations of stitching together the quarter and the quarter lining around their upper edges and the eyeleting of the vent flapscan be performed with the same facility and low cost, as could be done when the forepart was left open asin the case of the two-part toe lining, and yet no seam is produced over the instep and toe portions of the foot.

The modified form shown in Figs. 5 to 8 dispenses with a separate forward extension piece 5 seamed to the quarter lining, as above described. In this case, the quarter lining 20 is cut to provide the extension 20*, which extends far enough beyond the adjacent edge of the quarter 21 to permitthe easy and convenient closing of the vent by stitching the opened rear edge of the quarter lining 3 to the extension portion 20 of the quarter lining after the quarter has been stitched to the quarter lining and the eyelets have been in-- serted, the seaming along the. line 22 being the final operation in thus .assembling the quarter, its lining and the toe lining together preparatory to stitchingon the vamp 10,

which is united to the previously formed structure by a seam corresponding to seam 11.

Usually the quarter lining can be cut with n manufacture ,of popular priced shoes and,

therefore, this improvement results in the production of a shoe upper having no medial seam in its toe lining, but at a cost no greater than in cases where the medial seam construction has heretofore been used.

It will therefore be seen that by stitching the rear interior edge of the toe lining to the forward edge of the quarter lining on one side, only, of the medial line, the other side is left open to permit the unitingof the outside quarter member with the inner quarter lining member around the whole upper edge, including the edges of the vent which still remain open to facilitate this stitching and to facilitate the afixing of the row of eyelets along each edge of the vent. Since in either form the forward extension of the quarter lining projects beyond the adjacent forward edge of the quarter, there is no difliculty in rear edge of tthe toe lining to the forward extension of the quarter lining preparatory to attaching the vamp in the usual way. i

, closing the upper or vent by uniting the free It will be observed that in both forms the I opposite side of the shoe. "Preferably the forward extension piece ofthe quarter lining' will be stitched to the quarter lining on the ball or inner side of the upper.

What we claim is:

1. Improvement in the art of making shoe uppers which consists in stitching the rear edge of a one-piece toe lining to the forward edge of a quarter lining on one side only of the medial line of the upper leaving the vent of the upper open, then stitching an exteriorly applied prepared counter member to thequarter lining along their entire upper edges, including the edge portion sub-tending the vent, and eyeleting the edge portions of the vent, and thereafter closing the vent by stitching to a forward extension of the quarter lining the open rear edge of the toelining.

2. Improvementin the art of making shoe uppers which consists in uniting a one-piece toe liningand the quarter lining of the upper on one side only of the vent, then applying a prepared quarter outside the quarter lining and stitching its upper edge to the upper edge of the quarter lining and, eyeleting the vent sub-tending portions of such upper edge pertion, and thereafter stitching the open rear edge of the toe lining to a forward extension of the quarter lining.

3. A shoe upper embracing in its construction, a prepared quarter member and its inside lining provided on one side of the vent with an extension projecting forwardly of the edge of the quarter, and a-one-piece toe lining having its interior rear edges stitched to the forward extension of the quarter lining on one side and to the forward edge of the quarter lining on the other side of the upper. 4. A shoe upper embracing in its construction an outside quarter member, its interior lining member stitched thereto and having stitched to its forward outer edge an extension piece that is dimensioned to project beyond the forward edge of the quarter lining, and a one-piece toe lining whose rear interior edge is stitched to the forward edge of the quarter lining on one side of the medial line and the forward edge of said extension piece on the opposite side of said medial line.

5. A shoe upper embracing in its construction, an outerquarter member, an interior lining therefor stitched thereto provided with a forward extension, a toe lining, one of whose rearwardly extending portions on one side of the medial line is shorter than the other, said toe lining having the rear edge of its longer portion stitched to the edge ofthe quarter lining and the rear edge of its shorter portion stitched to the edge of said quarter lining extension. I y

6. A shoe upper embracing in its construc- 40 tion, an outside quarter, an inside quarter lining having forwardly extending lateral portions each side of the medial line of unequal length, a one-piece toe lining having rearwardly extending lateral portions of unequal length, the longer of which is stitched to the shorter forward side of the quarter lining and the shorter of which is stitched to the longer forward side of the quarter lining.

In witness whereof, we have subscribed the above specification.

HARVEY D. REED. HARRISON H. KENT. 

